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[:RU]Pachu Jawi — Festival bulls Sumatra[:]

[:RU]The organizers of our trip to Indonesia podgadali everything so that «covers» our program were local traditional festivals. And if we started our tour with the annual celebration of the Papuans, then the end of it we had to see something completely different.

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Running bulls Pachu Jawi (Pacu Jawi) — tradition of Minangkabau people of West Sumatra, historically dedicated to the end of the harvest. The original purpose of the festival — to give farmers the opportunity to show off their abilities bulls — used to them right after the races were sold, and the price is dependent on the quality of the performance. And what actually is this statement? ..

If earlier the festival was held once a year, now it is possible to catch every few months. The exact schedule is constantly changing, but the local tour company should be aware of. Bega Pachu Javi pass a couple of hours drive from Padang — City of Victory minibuses. (Who knows, maybe there right on the bus you can come!)

We got to the place of the festival shortly before midday, while neighboring farmers still drove his best bull to a running field.

Those bulls were not carried to the festival wooden structure is shaped like a boat. These things during the race on bulls dress instead harness — plug in the «stern» boat clings to the top of the neck, dragged behind everything else. Little crossbar on the «nose» as a stand for the feet jockey.

Even the children help carry the gear!

The festival takes place in the rice fields, a few tens of meters in length. More recently, there were growing rice ears, but now it is cleared. It is bisected by the fence and one half filled with water — is on it will run the bulls.

But it is too early, and farmers with bulls hang on the sidelines.

All have come to show their beasts, but look at other people’s. Pets holёnye, it is clear that they are well cared for.

«Hi, my name is Arkady! Very glad to meet you. And you do not know where all the girls? They are all now? .. «- Girls Pachu Javi does not happen, it’s a man’s holiday, the cows here do not lead.

Not yet started, you can walk, take pictures of cows from different angles. Although, the most advantageous angle with cows and bulls certainly that’s this:

Vova and Victor inspect the field — how to best shoot-coming? They try to understand better how the light where it is profitable, «backdrop», etc.

Going to a lot of photographers. Most of them are directly in the path of which will have to run the bulls. The organizers ask them to at least move a few steps back for the animal to lose speed.

And so began the movement. First bulls are on the initial line.

There, at the far end of the field once they are carefully prepared. I do not quite know chrego them ozhitat, watching curiously as the men to their knees in water potter with huge bulls.

Rushed! In the first «race», several pairs — so «open» festival. Note splashes — they are now for the most part transparent.

Bulls run in tandem, and the jockey rides behind them, standing on little feet rungs of the harness boats — they are dragged into the water for the bulls. From the outside it is a bit like a kind of surfing.

Bulls with acceleration run from the wet part of the field than pretty frightening range of foreign photographers. Surprisingly, the animals instantly brakes and allow vybezhevshemu somewhere boy lead him to the side. Soon visitors will get used to the fact that the bulls are not any harm they cause, and stop Shugan.

Pachu Jawi — Doubles sport. Bulls always run together. That coordination couples and is a competition — the best animals will run the field quickly, without wagging in hand, and holding each other close. This «cooperation» — one of the main criteria for a good result. Couples bulls that perform well on the festival can be sold several times more expensive than ordinary cattle.

In this sense, as in horse racing, jockey few minor role — compete animals, not people. By the way, racers do not bother with a bridle and keep the bulls tail.

Some couples tied with ropes for the muzzle, not to ran away.

But this is not sports. Much more interesting and entertaining, when the bulls are able to run in different directions. In such cases, the rider may be forced virtually the splits.

Such images, if they do well — the most spectacular. Since I myself am not a photographer, I will show you that Mike took the previous festival:


Photo: Mikhail Vorobyov. All Photos from his Pachu Jawi

Stay here and so the tail of the running of the bulls, standing on the board, the bottom plowing rice field is quite easy. Even experienced riders often fail to reach standing until the end, and they fall into the mud.

That they were not too upset — I think the guys enjoy vnezavisimosti matter will reach you to the finish line.

If you fall — it does not matter. He got up, dusted himself off, went back to the start, and you go again with a new pair of oxen. Jockeys because quite a bit, each of them multiple times a day so that’s travels. Interestingly, the owners of the bulls in advance to agree with them, or who will control what the bulls — a matter of chance? ..

Here’s how it looks in action:

Intermission! For those who want a break from the bulls on the sidelines spread out sheeted there amateur folk. The men play traditional drummer …

Children embroidered national costumes read poems and sing songs …

Generally interested shorter. Better yet, we look at the bulls.

Around the field crowd — she also thinks that the bulls are interesting.

Some owners sign their bulls. It’s a self-promotion? ..

By the way, to make the bull run faster jockey can bite its tail. «But he’s filthy!» Disgust you will object. Yes, dirty. But these people several times a day, this dirt will literally swallow, fell during the race. What are they more sensitive?

This gives the biting animal some sense of hurry.

Photographers meantime all work on the bulls. Basically, they are standing at the finish line, trying to remove the very masterpiece with jockey in the splits.

Periodically, the bulls run into the friendly staff. Children are no longer afraid of being crushed, just gently push cameras from the path of dirty animals.

Those daring (or who already took a masterpiece in front) are standing along the fence. There is another view, but you can get closer.

Sometimes a pair of oxen right next to you will carry along this fence …

The truth is, bulls Losers rolled off track, and take away sharply to the right, jumping over the fence sickly. In such cases, it is difficult to coolly navenoe stand and take pictures.

But — the most intelligent of the photographers. He will not go to hell, calmly currently operates drones, which removes all the action from above.

His aircraft with a loud sheburshaniem hovers over the field. The owner controls it joysticks, and looks at a picture through aypad. A couple of times he flew up pretty close to falling into the water jockeys. One is clearly did not like and he splashed dirty water on the drone. The owner responded with lightning speed — the car immediately flew away, and did not violate the private space of the festival.

Let’s see what’s going on at the far end of the field, where the races begin. Here each jockey support team. Three — four people are in the water and cook the bulls. They bring together, wear the harness and hold until the rider does not fit the back and did not chase the animals forward.

When the couple escaped, and Assistants are loud cheer jockey. All on emotions.

Sometimes vrednichat bulls do not want to go to the start, then it is necessary to drag them by force …

A couple of times just standing on the sidelines and sniff each other like dogs under the cries of the audience.

Speaking of the audience — most of them do not stand next to the finish line with a bunch of photographers, and sit on the side of the field.

In contrast to the Papuans of the festival, a lot of visitors — locals. They pulled together to Pachu Jawi from the surrounding towns and villages, not in order to remove a masterpiece, but just look at the merry dvizhuhu.

Immediately, aside from racing, they work every retail cheap Chinese garbage. A variety of labels and plastic trinkets give a penny. Pachu Jawi — Democratic Festival.

Bulls continue to run for several hours, seemingly without end. Remember, in the beginning, the spray were almost transparent? So that’s the third hour of the festival water and dirt whipped into a uniform mixture of brown.

Sometimes even the jockeys themselves not to see splashes of dirt that they raise.

Bulls released as they become available, sometimes it turns out that running just two couples — it is very spectacular moments, because it creates the impression of a classic race.

Generally course Pachu Jawi — an incredible spectacle, the race impressed me more than Papuan dances to the audience. It is evident that they are absolutely genuine.

This fuss in the mud for several hundred years, it’s nice to see that these traditions continue to live even in the era of tourists from DSLRs.

Perhaps, if it was not our night visit to the incredible crater-Hell Idzhena, Pachu Jawi would most vivid impression from the trip. And so, the bulls festival takes the second place.

Although this is a purely personal perception … I could be wrong. Ride check how you feel!

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