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[:RU]Saint-Louis. Senegal and the Gambia.[:]

[:RU]Before St. Louis we got dark. The city was asleep and seemed deserted. I remember a few bridges, straight streets, a long ride on the spit, and finally a nice hotel open gates on the front page. And there … Wellcome-drink, wi-fi, noisy guests (white, of course), occupied the bar and bell-boys, snapping up our luggage. As if we were not in the African province, and flew to Turkey by the voucher. However, morning, everyone returned to their seats. Behind the fence of the hotel, «Cap Sept. Louis,» in which the owner, the Frenchman set orders according to their perceptions of comfort and care, was the polyphonic grubby poverty, and I do not lie if I say that did not meet the city dirty, stinking than St. Louis.

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1.
This small regional center with a population of a little less than two hundred thousand people spoiled by the attention of tourists thanks to Juju national park located nearby. During the season the park becoming a haven for millions of birds arriving for the winter from around the world. Following them flock and birdwatchers. Although many are skeptical about this lesson, called «birdwatching», sea birds makes open his mouth even seasoned travelers. Looking ahead to say that the visit to the park — one of the most vivid impressions, brought me from Senegal. But about the park is in the next part, and now go back to St. Louis.

2. Faidherbe Bridge, connecting the mainland and the island of the Saint-Louis.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

The city consists of three parts, connected by bridges. Mainland — a modern, boring and biggest — no interest. From the sea it is protected by a narrow sand scythe, whose base rests in Mauritania. This area of ​​the city — the most bustling and lively, it is inhabited by fishermen and their families, numbering ten or more children. Between the mainland and the small oblique Prytula rayonchik, who took a separate island — this is the historic colonial Saint Louis. We drove to the island half a kilometer through a huge metal bridge and stopped in front of the former Governor’s Palace.

3.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

St. Louis was founded in 1659 by French traders on a desert island, which is the local Wolof tribe has named Ndar. The first permanent French settlement in this part of Africa was called Saint-Louis-du-Fort in homage to the French King Louis XIV. From here on exports were hides, beeswax, incense, rubber, and even slaves. By the end of the 18th century, Saint-Louis had about 5,000 inhabitants, becoming the largest center for sub-Saharan Africa.

4. The Governor’s Palace, beautiful, but not photogenic.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

In 1854, the governor of the colony became Louis Faydherb made for the city more than the entire Senegalese authorities for 50 years of independence. During his St. Louis got water and began to supply drinking water was stretched telegraph line in Dakar, built bridges, including a bridge designed by Gustave Eiffel (yes, the same) — a source of pride residents (those, of course, who It has sufficient education and training to be proud of such things). As a result, in 1895, Saint-Louis has rightly become the capital of the Federation of French West African colonies.

5. The only decent monument in the city was left with the last century and is dedicated to just Faydherbu.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

With the development of the role of Dakar Saint-Louis began to decline. After the construction of the railroad, which connected these two cities, as trade was reoriented to Dakar. But St. Louis has retained its status as the capital of Senegal, even after the Dakar was declared the capital of French West Africa. And yet, like St. Petersburg in Russia, St. Louis is considered the cultural capital of the country.

6. Colonial architecture in the city center resembles that once there was a very nice and cozy.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

6a. And clean, easy to see that in the pictures a hundred years ago.

(Photo from Internet)

With the independence of Senegal in 1960, and the final transfer of the capital Dakar to Saint-Louis as if fell into a coma. City left the French population; close stores, offices and factory did not live so far and hopes that the situation will change for a long time no one feeds. Nevertheless, more than three hundred years of history, and a unique location at the crossroads of Islam and Christianity, European and African cultures has not been in vain and do Saint-Louis unlike any other city.

7. Colonial architecture.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

8.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

9.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

10.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

eleven.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

12. (photo of one of my travel companions)
Senegal, Saint-Louis

13. schoolgirl.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

Immediately after the bridge waiting for guests home-made tourist carriages. They were there for a few, but the demand is low. At that moment, when we got on a cart and went to inspect the central neighborhoods, we were the only tourists on the island. A surprised looks citizens, we now and then caught on itself, only proves that the white face is not such a frequent phenomenon here.

14. never knows how the norms of Sharia will get to this place, then will have to cover the chest, not to mention about the person.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

15.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

After passing the island through and through, from the museum to the south to the Great (really small) mosque in the north, looked in shops and inns former mansion, visited the church, the abbot of which received a donation, but was very unhappy with its size, saw the new mosque and inspected a rusty Crane — a monument to the time of Saint Louis was a port city.

16. The extreme south of the island. Corner building — museum.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

17. Grand Mosk — Grand Mosque.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

18. Streets.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

19.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

20. The old and the very old.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

21.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

22. In the shop.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

23. Dear people go to evening prayers.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

24. Modern Mosque (Mosquée Tidiane Keur Madior)
Senegal, Saint-Louis

25. Cathedral of St. Louis, founded in 1828, is unique because it is the oldest church in West Africa.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

26. Inside — poor little.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

27. Numerous coffee houses on wheels — one of the features of Saint-Louis.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

28. Colonial courtyard.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

29. The Dockside crane capacity of 20 tons.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

30. View of the Mainland Area. There already are typical oriental motifs in architecture.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

31. What was here before? Surely customs or port offices.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

32. And now, local craftsmen put up along the boarded-up doors souvenirs, among which come across interesting specimens, if not a work of art.
Senegal, Saint-Louis
(A photo of one of my travel companions)

33. Old ship.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

34. Urban Sculpture.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

Sitting in a carriage and sliding glance at dilapidated walls of buildings, the first of which the owners have long left this light, it is possible in some way to capture the spirit of the past, which still hurts the pride of ordinary Senegalese. Yes, if there was order, but ordinary Negroes from this procedure was neither cold nor hot. I do not be surprised if as in the capital of Eritrea Asmera local generally forbidden to walk on these streets, if they were not servants or cleaners. Now, deprived of slave shackles people can do whatever he pleases, including shitting in the parade and to dump garbage on the coast.

35.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

36. Some of the children greeted us with shouts «tubab», which translates to «the white man», while others, taking a cue from their elders, turn away or cover their faces at the sight of the photo camera.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

On the western shore of the island overlooking the Ndar fishing braid cluttered with painted boats. If you find this place in the pictures from space, you’ll see a myriad of long boats; they hide from the eyes of the mountain of garbage — a terrible trash, which turned the whole bay.

37.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

38. At this time, the boats on the shore were few men went out to sea for fish.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

39.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

40. Taken from the bridge that connects the fishing area and the colonial island Ndar. Directly adjacent to the bank market, from which all the garbage and is under the feet of passers-by.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

41. Particularly attentive can see bloated carcass of an animal, nailed to the shore. But the most unpleasant thing is not it, but that swimming in contaminated water children …
Senegal, Saint-Louis

Island Ndar Santiaba area and share some 50 meters, but on the spit a completely different life, completely different kinds of smells and mood.

42. enter the Spit meets a monument to those killed in the First World War.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

43. Area.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

There are people who are accustomed to work from morning to evening, from evening to morning. The ocean gives them food in abundance. Let the table have a monotonous, but it is always full. As a consequence, the area terribly overcrowded, 80 percent of its inhabitants are under 30 years old. And I do not even dare to imagine what would happen when they grow numerous offspring senluiskih fishermen.

44. Avenue Dodds — the main street on the spit.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

45.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

46. ​​Distribution of food: who had — and he ate.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

47. Street scene.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

In this part of town, there are two interesting places, each of which is permanently etched in my memory. The first is the fish market. We ended up here at night, when no dealers or buyers are not almost was not. At the entrance of a large family of assorted recent catch of homemade smokehouse was a heavy smell of rotten fish, ran away from the black dirt counters. Here we somehow were frankly not happy, saleswoman rare hidden faces and gestures chased us.

48.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

49. In these tanks the fish is smoked.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

50. Counters.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

And the second — a Muslim cemetery, on which we have been asked not to go, probably, that we have not defiled the grave with their presence. Chaos, which carries the life of the average citizen of St. Louis haunts him even after his death. In the vast cemetery with the graves of well cleaned concrete (often covered with tiles) several dozen tombstones, all other burial marked sticks of different lengths, which are nailed plaques with names and dates.

51.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

A bit on the side is a memorial burial of the First World, tidy and ennobled money France.

52.

And finally — a few details and street scenes shot in different parts of St. Louis.

53. The information posters in the city center.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

54. It decided to draw on the walls of the Sufi leaders.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

55. The images can be seen even in unexpected places. On the tree drawn Amadou Bamba, the details of which will be discussed in the chapter on Tuba and Tubakutu.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

56. The benefits of such a climate is that you can go to sleep wherever he wanted to.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

57.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

58. Polio — the scourge of Africa a couple of decades ago. Now, thanks to donations and various programs had been ill with the disease receive special carriages and bicycles. According to their abundance in the streets can see the scale of the disease.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

59. For some reason, all the begging in St. Louis wore the same striped clothing.
Senegal, Saint-Louis
(Photo of one of my travel companions)

60. Conversation on the street.
Senegal, Saint-Louis
(Photo of one of my travel companions)

61. Waiting for a taxi.
Senegal, Saint-Louis
(Photo of one of my travel companions)

62. Special axes master-piece hollow tree trunk, gradually turning it into a boat.
Senegal, Saint-Louis

PS Well, that spit on the back of a wild and windy ocean, on the banks of which you can sit down in the evening with a glass of wine under the lapping of the waves and calm the mind and organize the chaos that pervades this small but very picturesque town.

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Author: Olga Pereko[:]

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