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[:RU]How to produce biological Italian mozzarella from buffalo milk[:]

[:RU]It is enough to pass the Italian city of Salerno in southern direction, and the first store to buy fresh buffalo mozzarella as tutzhe begs the legitimate question: «If that is the mozzarella, then what I ate until now ?!»
Despite the fact that more than ten years I go to the sea in Cilento, which produces a third of the Italian buffalo mozzarella, every year this issue pops up again and again. Only now I do not buy buffalo mozzarella in the first store, and I stop her in the place where they live happy buffalo, which is made ​​from the milk of the sweetest mozzarella.

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Wolfgang von Goethe, traveling to Italy, passing through the same places, on which I am going to Cilento. His goal was to Paestum, near which he saw in a certain body of water buffalo or similar, in his opinion, hippos.


Well-preserved Greek temples of Paestum still attract tourists from all over the world, and just across the road from the temples and buffalo can be seen, if you do not pass by the small signs indicating the economy Vannulo.

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Stopping at the gate zootechnical economy, the atmosphere which in our view is more related with pictures barnyard, was surprised to find yourself in a beautiful villa fine finished.

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Track through flower beds leads to a covered livestock complex, which is different from the usual for cattle so that there is complete silence, except for a small musical background, and does not smell of manure. The smell of fresh grass is, and manure is not!

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It is home to 500 buffalo, which created the conditions for the maximum comfort of their health and, consequently, for the production of milk used to make mozzarella.

Living conditions for the buffalo on the farm created, starting from the great love of these animals to the water. Natura Buffalo is such that it can safely tolerate many hardships, but the long absence of water and the air is too dry buffalo was brought to this madness. The stories described cases of furious calm before domestic buffalo, sweeping everything in its path, when in their field of vision got a pond.

Place each animal in a well-ventilated mattress designated farm, which is soaked with water. Stalls are equipped with racks with drip showers.

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Each animal can optionally take separate shower and get a massage to the music of Mozart, that quiet sounds under the roofs.

Accumulated manure is washed away by strong currents of water, again like the buffalo.

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Buffaloes are very unpretentious in food. The nature of their diet is coarse plant type sedges and rushes. Therefore, buffaloes are used for cleaning overgrown channels.

On the farm pasture forage is not used chemical fertilizers, so the animal feed are organic. All feed produced on the farm.

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Sexual life buffalo, also runs a natural way, unlike cows, which have long been inseminated iskussvenno. Each group contains the buffalo bull. This name is handsome sofa. As I explained, he was given this nickname because on that day he was born, someone bought a bed)))

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Giving buffalo nicknames associated with certain events, holders of old tradition buffalo farms. Save the document with a buffalo farm last King of Naples, which is not the titles, not the nickname: The Countess N-ckaya, Prince von .. I wonder how flattered by royal guests such imprinting the memory of them?!

Buffaloes catchy nicknames, and will be glad to respond. Still, there are buffalo farm where bufalaro (employee caring for buffaloes) calling their animals for milking, singsong shouting their nicknames. It turns out that something like a singing verse. Buffalo milking followed strictly by the spoken nicknames.

The farm Vanullo buffalo decide when they need to be milked, so line up for milking in the living place. Buffalo are milked three times a day during the whole lactation, which lasts an average of 270 days a year. Average production of milk -12 l / day.

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Milking is done automatically at the facility, designed by the Swedish firm. On the collar of each animal hanging chip, which contain all information about the animal, including information about his ancestry. After chip communication occurs with the computer system, milking management and milk analysis.

The content of dairy animals by nature require contact with water, it puts a serious problem for compliance with the required hygiene when milking and transformation of milk, which is not subject to pastorizatsii.

If the analysis of milk some buffalo shows abnormal milk misses the general molokosbornik, and the animal is called a veterinarian. By the way, treat only organic buffalo also homeopathic remedies.

The only violence in the nature of the buffalo, which have to do on the farm, is mandatory weaning calves born. In the wild buffalo mortality is very high, so they feed iskussvenno, creating additional conditions for their survival.

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So we now come to talk about buffalo milk, in order to obtain and which has all the above conditions of buffalo on the farm. What is different from the other buffalo milk, from which also make cheese?

Buffalo milk, especially compared with the cow, from which also makes the mozzarella, which should be more correctly called fior di latte. But if the Italians do not bother with names …

Buffalo milk is much richer with dry substance: protein (4.4% versus 2.7% buffalo in a cow), fat (7.5-9.5% in 3,3-4% against buffalo cow), so it gives a higher yield of final product, i.e. cheese. To produce 1 kg of mozzarella need 4 liters of milk. The same cow must 1.8 times more.

Besides buffalo milk fat globules larger than the cow, which facilitates the process of emulsification of fat, and the differences in their biochemical composition suggest less exposure to rapid oxidation.

The content of milk sugar (in buffalo milk is also higher than in cow, so the taste is sweet. That’s where unusual for the consumer industrial buffalo mozzarella sweet! And buffalo milk is richer in calcium.

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Motsarella- is the main product for which the whole hi-tesh-kny fuss! Roots of young cheese production is directly related to the appearance in the Italian buffalo. I will not be distracted by a conversation about when and who has delivered the buffalo, how did the technology for production of mozzarella, for glavnogo- see how it is done at the dairy.

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Before my readers picture cheese factory, where it is the mystery of these things. Huge window dairies serves as a symbol of the idea that underlies the economy Vannulò- absolute transparency of the entire production process.

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In the morning the tourists coming into the economy in order to «touch», can see the whole process motsarellotvorchestva through this same window. «Transparent walls» buffalo sanatorium possible to observe the life of animals all day.

I was admitted to the inner sanctum cheese factory for a couple of photo blogger after putting on the sanitary shoe covers and a bathrobe.

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Work in the dairy begins at 4 am, when here comes the filtered milk the previous day, cooled to 4-5 C.

The production process of buffalo milk mozzarella is closely related to the peculiarities of its flora, which is richer strains of lactic acid bacteria than cow’s microflora. They are responsible for a certain degree of flavor and aroma of the finished cheese.

The milk is heated with steam to a temperature of 33-38 C, after which it is added to activate the natural microflora of fermented whey from the previous day’s production. The activated t.obrazom milk introduced natural rennet and within half an hour coagulate milk clot.

Milk undergoes a clot breaking manual first on large cubes, and after half an hour to particles the size of a walnut. From the department after breaking clot serum is then prepared ricotta, milk and pieces of clot t.e.kalyatu transferred onto metal tables where she loses excess fluid and takes its fermentation t.nazyvaemaya cheddaring.

The duration of the fermentation depends on the season: 3-4 hours in summer, in winter to 8. Qal`at Ready for the next phase of production is determined by heating 100 g Qal`at in hot water: if it is easy to have melted and easily stretches, then you can begin to filature.

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Matured Qal`at cut using a special machine into small pieces, pour boiling water and mix with a stick until she starts turning into a brilliant stretching monotonous mass.

Pulling into the thread (il filo-thread) and gives the name of the process as well as mozzarella classified as cheese pasta filante.

From cheesemaking skills at this point depends on the basic quality of the final product.

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Now comes the moment of formation of mozzarella, which gave its name to the cheese.

The term mozzarella is derived from the verb mozzare, ie a gesture that is practiced so far in any the dairy producing mozzarella manually.

Let us follow the details of this gesture!

Dairies, which deals filaturoy curd, formed from it a big ball and throws it in the bath, in which three other dairies-Kazar (il casaro-cheesemaker) tear it into small mozzarella.

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The water in the bath hot, so the process should go quickly and smoothly.

One of the Kasari covers palms the ball and Kazar, which stands in front of him, grabs the ball with the other hand.

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At the time of setting the ball a second Kasari, both immersed in the curd thumbs and forefingers.

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Squeeze your fingers …

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… And the second mandrel Kasari motsareely tear a piece that turns the right size and rounded shape.

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Ready-made mozzarella rushes to the bathroom with cold water, and extends the hand of another Kasari Kasari, which also stands in front of a bowl with cooked curd. Gesture mozzare, meaning a sharp tearing, repeated.

If the ball curd ready to form mozzarella, weighs somewhere in the 2-3 kg and buffalo mozzarella ready weighs 200 grams, it is possible to count how often and quickly made this gesture. Talk about what needs to be skills-cheese-makers Kazarov already too.

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A more severe form of mozzarella (from 500 g to 1 kg) is Aversana. Connoisseurs prefer to buy it.

Small in shape and form Cardinale weight (30 g) and bocconcini (60 g) are made by machine.

Pigtails, as a small (60 g) and large (500 g kg-1) make a hand. Mozzarella, plaited in a pigtail, contains less serum in the tissues, so this form is used in cooking, when you need to escape her isolation unnecessary.

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Chilled Mozzarella shifted in the tub with a solution of salt, which brought the final taste of mozzarella.

As I noted earlier, buffalo mozzarella, produced in the area of ​​Salerno different sweet taste, which emphasizes the use of a lower concentration of salt in cheese salature. Mozzarella produced in the area of ​​Caserta, where the focus bòlshaya part of its production, it is characterized by a pronounced salty note.

Having achieved the desired effect, the cheese is passed into the cooled water in which there was a process filatury, which added a little salt and serum depending on the time of year.

Sale mozzarella immersed in a liquid.

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Especially sfotografirova sales process to avoid any doubts that the liquid for the buyer pays too.

Mozzarella is weighed first, and only then the package is filled with liquid.

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Packages with mozzarella wrapped in insulating boxes in which the cheese can easily get to the table, for which was purchased.

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Specially photographed package with mozzarella, so you can see all the relevant information about it.

Detailed descriptions and photographs of the animals signs describing confirms European certification of the product as the biological.

Much more interesting storage conditions mozzarella, limited the scope of 10-15 C. At this temperature, mozzarella can be stored up to 3 the action without losing its important Environmental Specifications.

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First, the surface of mozzarella should be shiny and pearly white. Buffalo milk does not contain carotenoids that can impart any color shades of yellow.

I specially photographed against the backdrop of mozzarella and tomatoes mountain Cilento to noticeable was the contrast of its color and shape.

Secondly, the mold must remain precisely rounded. Note constriction! This seam is only at the mozzarella, which formiruyuetsya hand in hot water. Forms of machinery do not have it.

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Third, the consistency of the cheese should be soft and flexible with slight whey separation, which should have a fresh milk taste with some musk nuance.

More than 3 days of proper storage (in the summer without a refrigerator is not enough!) With mozzarella significant changes: the outer layer begins to peel off, INTERNAL consistency becomes like a cream, taste starts to taste bitter.

I’m sorry that my readers can not try this little motstsarelku-bocconcini, which is offered for tasting at the dairy farm. The first impression is clearly talking about sweet taste of cheese.

Just do not directly represent the taste of sweet cream cake! Better to remember how impersonal taste mozzarella from the supermarket.

After trying this, and set ourselves the question, what kind of products are sold under the label «mozzarella», if the present is not unlike any taste or consistency at the store ?!

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All that is now read my readers, it was told to me by two charming young ladies, Teresa and Annalisa, who are the daughters of the owner and founder of the Anthony Palmieri farming. It was he who laid the foundation for a completely new southern Italian production, t.nazyvaemogo «0 km».

This production system is based on the rules of organic agriculture, on respect for the natural environment, to animals and to people’s needs.

The system of the animals and the transparency of all phases of the production process took place already before the eyes of my readers.

In this economy I do not buy anything in the other, and do not sell on its side. Milk production is calculated exactly as fodder that agriculture can provide their livestock.

The farm does not invest money in advertising their products, because the quality is the best advertising: TV reporters from around the world do they ask for removal of reporting on economy.

The farm has only one selling point of mozzarella, which can be bought only by reservation. No restaurateurs or dealers can not buy more than 5 kg of product.

It could also result in more unusual examples of Southern Italy economic Signora Palmieri and his family: that it is an example to its neighbors the best school; that go to him to learn from around the world. When I took this interview, the farm works just bufalaro some important Japanese …

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The main discovery that I have made in the office of the girls, it was the yogurt! I do not know why he had previously escaped my attention? I did not just call in to the farm!

Yogurt naturally made from whole milk and subjected to stirring. Taste can afford to provide, on the basis of what previously was the mozzarella.

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Economy Vannulo first in Italy in 2000 opened the production of buffalo yogurt, and now yogurt buffalo milk can be bought almost anywhere.

This year the economy is due to open shop for the production of milk chocolate on the basis of buffalo milk. Is not this an example of where to invest the money instead of advertising!

It may seem strange, but the standard approach to everything interesting, that is, beyond the threshold of his cowshed, Antonio Palmieri received from his father and grandfather, who were ordinary herdsmen.

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Yogurt tasted, I could not visit the cafe yogurteriyu in which there is also an ice cream from buffalo milk!

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The choice of flavors of ice cream and yoghurt is huge. A feature of fruit yogurt is that they are produced on the basis of only natural fruits and no added sugar.

Ice cream is also produced only with natural ingredients.

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Tutzhe café has its own bakery that bakes brioche. I hope that now all familiar way to degustrirovat southern Italian ice cream with brioche ?!

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Pistachio and nut ice cream is the best way to check whether the ice cream uses natural nuts or standard tinted paste.

I assure you that the taste of nuts and chips in the language, the best proof!

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Blueberry yogurt is better not to buy, because Bank him not live up to the house!

Speaking of the house! If you want to buy yogurt home, you will pack it in ice: t.obrazom will reach it without losing their living microflora.

And the fact that it is very much alive in the yogurt, my experience proves homemade yogurt, which I did 2 months, using as a survivor of the original sourdough 8-hour trip from the yogurt Vannulo.

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Just a few words about the boutique, which produce and sell products from buffalo skin. Skin excrete in Tuscany, as bags, belts, etc. sewn in place.

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A few years ago my cousin bought a boutique in the two bags, which still does not have a single scratch.

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We can only say that the farm every day, especially in summer, visited by hundreds of tourists from different countries, especially with children who are interesting to talk to animals.

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The children immediately ran to the corral, which has a swimming pool for water buffalo. It is extremely fun to watch how these little gippopotamchiki frolic in the water and in the mud puddles, creating the impression of an absolutely happy animals.

Healthy and calm animals, well-groomed and nicely equipped place (and there still is possible to relax in the garden of the villa), the possibility of their own eyes to make sure that the manufactured product, not only delicious, but also absolutely chestnyy- Is not this the best advertising that here you always want to come back and bring their friends ?! I brought you)))))

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